BAGA BEACH (India) - BEACH beds are lined up outside the snack bars dotting the sandy white coastline and dance music booms from bars and restaurants. The only thing missing from Goa's beaches are the throngs of merrymakers who normally flock here for the hedonistic year-end parties.

With the country on alert in the wake of the terror attacks in Mumbai that killed 164 people and nine accused gunmen, Goa officials have banned beach parties and stepped up patrols. Scores of spooked foreigners have cancelled vacations.

Those who stuck to their plans are arriving to metal detectors and baggage scanners instead of the cocktails, house music and rollicking outdoor parties that the laid-back former Portuguese colony is known for.

As Goa effectively shut down its party scene, Mumbai was attempting a return to normalcy.

The iconic Taj Mahal hotel and the Oberoi, both targets in the bloody attacks, partially reopened on Sunday, greeting guests with prayer ceremonies and pledges of tightened security.

With the holidays approaching, the landmark hotels seemed eager to woo guests back.

But jitters kept visitors away from Mumbai and Goa alike.

'There aren't enough parties. Everyone's scared,' said Mr John Ball, a 22-year-old marine engineer from London, as he strolled down the popular Baga Beach.

'This is the peak season. Everyone should be coming out,' said Mr Ball, who was back visiting Goa after making a trip two years ago.

'To me, it looks like half the amount of people than usual.'

Adding to surveillance by the Indian Coast Guard, Goa police also are patrolling the coastline with boats carrying armed officers, Inspector General of Police Kishan Kumar said.

On Saturday, officials reluctantly banned all beach parties.

'Taking into consideration all the aspects, we have decided that beach parties would not be allowed from Dec 23 to Jan 5,' Goa Chief Minister Digamber Kamat said.

Just a handful of tourists loitered on Baga Beach on one recent afternoon. Some strolled along the sandy coastal stretch, others lazed on beds laid out near a row of shacks that serve drinks and snacks.

But by early evening, the eclectic mix of jewelers, bars and restaurants crammed along a narrow strip right off the beach - usually hopping this time of year - were largely empty.

'We feel like crying,' said Mr Tony Branza, manager of the beach shack Lucky Star, where few people were buying up the snacks and drinks on sale. He said revenue is down by some 90 per cent compared to a year ago.

The neighbouring Le Marin beach shack has a staff of 30 and not enough money coming in. 'How will I pay salary for these people?' owner Francis D'Souza said.

The dearth of visitors could be devastating because tourism is a major money spinner for this tiny region that spans about 1,430 square miles (3,700 square kilometres) - about 200 square miles (520 square meters) larger than Rhode Island.

Since Portuguese rule ended in 1961, Goa has evolved into a popular tourist destination and its coastline is crammed with hotels - ranging from low-cost backpacker havens to five-star luxury resorts.

Last year, Goa was India's No. 10 destination for foreign tourists, drawing nearly 390,000 visitors, according to figures compiled by India's Ministry of Tourism.

Tourism accounts for 34 per cent of the state's gross domestic product, generating about 15 billion Indian rupees (S$462.9 million) in revenue a year, according to Director of Tourism Elvis Gomes.

But in the wake of the attacks, the US, Canada, Britain and other countries issued travel advisories warning its citizens against visiting India. Britain and Israel issued specific warnings about Goa.

Goa is particularly popular among young Israeli backpackers fresh out of military service. Restaurants offer Hebrew-language menus, and some locals have even picked up a smattering of Hebrew.

This year, Israelis have been warned to stay away. The Mumbai attackers targeted a Jewish center, killing a rabbi and his wife, as well as luxury hotels and a train station.

Travellers are taking heed. The number of tourists to Goa has dropped by 20 per cent since the attacks and the number of hotel bookings for the upcoming holiday season is down by the same percentage compared to last year, Gomes said.

He said he hopes it's just a phase. 'I'm a bit worried in the short term, but not in the long term. I'm hopeful the situation will be overcome shortly,' Mr Gomes said. -- AP